Paseando por Portugal or Doing the Duero May, 2012

I couldn't decide on which of my clever titles to use so I used both of them!  Vicky Dehnert and I had a ball driving from Porto to the Upper Duero River Valley and then to Vigo.  I met Vicky originally through my parents as they attended the same church.  She had moved back to Sausalito after many years in Austin and became a widow about a year ago.  She took her first long solo trip with a group to Morocco, flew alone to Lisbon and rented a car...she worked her way north to Porto where I met her on Wednesday afternoon, the 16th.  I was off ("again?" as my daughter would say) for the Day of Galician Writers and a "bridge day" for a four day weekend.  We stayed in Porto overnight and the next day headed for the Valley in our cute little Fiat.

Our trusty little Fiat

We decided to take the old river road that followed the river's zigging and zagging on our way in - an adventure in and of itself!  Guess what?!  GPS devices are very good for highways and entering cities but aren't really programmed for older roads in the middle of nowhere.  We actually only got lost once and had to backtrack some but I learned to understand the Portuguese words for "straight ahead", "to the right", "to the left", "oops", etc. very well over the next few days.  We saw an incredible beauty of terraced, huge valleys with a large river coursing through the bottom.

Vicky and our first view of Valley

Cherry trees and hazy Valley

Smaller valley off the main one

 We bought cherries from a roadside stand as they were ripening everywhere - including trees so close to the road that as we drove by, we opened the windows and helped ourselves to a few!

Cherry lady - kilo for 2 euros

 We stopped in the town of Lamoge for lunch and a stroll through a very old sanctuario church that you approach from the plaza by a staircase of 800+ steps.  Delicious feijoada for lunch, too!  The weather was perfect each day:  cool but not cold at all and partly sunny.

Our mission as we drove was to find the place we had reserved from Porto for that night.  We knew the name and what town it was near and that was all.  Poor Vicky, we were on the road longer but she probably drove 5 hours of hairpins and challenging roads that day!  At last, we arrived at our Casa de Vilarinho de Ramoas! 

Entrance to "our" estate

view of house and vine-covered porch

Interior hall

dining room and English couples from Sussex area

We had chosen a marvelous place as we quickly discovered when we were greeted personally by the owner, restorer, manager and cook of the house.  It was the 18th century manor house of an estate that has been lovingly and accurately restored by Cristina and her husband.  Cristina is an art teacher and graphic designer by training and used all of that and her knowledge of Portugal to create an amazing place to stay in the middle of the vineyards.  The chapel on the grounds that she is beginning to restore now is dated 1462 - before America was even discovered!

chapel with 1462 date on right

 Vicky and I decided to stay there 2 nights and take advantage of the location and the lodgings.  We also met 2 delightful English couples there who were embarked on a walking tour through northern Portugal.  They walked reasonable distances each day to another inn and their luggage was transported for them.  When they arrived, they had been provided with walks to take in the area and information about what to see.  I plan to check out their mode of travel for the future.

We set out on our day there across the vineyards to the neighboring village of Sabrosa after an extensive breakfast included in our modest room rate.  It was like a Hollywood set it was so cute! 

village of Sabrosa

need a drink on your hike?

sample of colors we saw everywhere

Also found out that it was the town Ferdinand Magellan was from and we saw the house he grew up in.  After a cold drink stop, we began our return via a different route.  We didn't make it very far before Vicky spotted a truck that had rotisserie chickens cooking...and, of course, we had to have one...it had been several hours since our last feeding! 

chicken man and Vicky!

After that tasty snack, we headed back to our gorgeous inn.  After a brief rest, we walked about a km. to a nearby Port winery because one cannot go to the heart of Port country without trying the specialty!

Port tasting

 We returned once again to our place and decided a book and a bottle of local wine on the porch was the best course of action at that point.  So, we forced it upon ourselves until our English companions returned for some lively conversation about both countries and then, dinner at 7:30PM.  Dinner, of course, was unbelievably good with meats, veggies, salads, even a tomato quiche followed by homemade desserts.

Saturday morning we decided to work our way north to Vigo but using more traveled roads and highways once we left the Duero Upper Valley.  We stopped in Guimares, the designated European Culture Center for this year.  An incredibly beautiful older town that we both agreed we'd like to visit again for longer than a quick look at some of the buildings and lunch at a small restaurant.  We hit the highway after lunch and arrived in Vigo less than 2 hours later...about 6 PM.  I took Vicky on a walk by the Ria and part of the downtown where I live.  Later, about 8 PM, my friend Teresa joined us for a couple of stops in the Casco Vello - old medieval part of Vigo that's being restored as an interesting quarter.  We even got into The Pig - a Vigo icon that only the locals k ow about because it doesn't even have a sign!  Guess what we snacked on there?  Sunday morning, Vicky planned to get up and head towards Lisbon so we we didn't stay out too late.  After she left on her return drive and us both promising to travel together again, I turned my attention to the humdrum of laundry and job applications for my return to Austin.  It's a week later as I write this so I'm getting closer to catching up with all my adventures...uh oh, but next weekend is Germany, what's a girl to do??!

Cooking...Camping...Competing...Celebrating May 2012

Cooking with Sole(dad)...sounds like the name of a cooking show, doesn't it?  Sole is a wonderful, newer friend who I met originally through Cristina and Fernando but to whom I introduced the Masters swim team in her own town!  We have lots of fun swimming and going to her house to cook and eat delicious meals.  She has invited me over several Sundays to eat with her or with her and her daughter who is in for the weekend from medical school.  (Sole is also a physician.)  Last time I said I would bring guacamole since I had several ripe avocados and had discovered Herdez hot sauce at the gourmet market.  Well, you would have thought I had invented chocolate!!  She and her daughter had only had Spanish made guacamole which is rather bland and I so enjoyed watching them almost smack their lips as they enjoyed the authentic guacamole I had made!  Now, I need to figure out my recipe so I can leave it for them...of course, she roasted lamb, baked small potatoes, made a salad AND a homemade flan to go with the guacamole!  And, to take advantage of the oven being heated, she made an orange and an apple flavored bizcocho(sort of pound cake)....of which I took home a quarter of each!  PS  Her daughter's name is Laura!!

Camping with the equivalent of 10th graders from Friday morning to Saturday evening...May 11 and 12...with two teachers from my school, Adela and Eva, and a total of 20 students.

The Group in front of Indian home on campground

  What a blast I had!  We took the ferry across the Ria to the small town of Moana and then hiked about 2 km. with our stuff - several girls had large, rolling suitcases!!  We arrived at Camp Tiran and were shown our "bungalows" - camping in Spain includes nice little houses w/a full bathroom...who knew?!  We were right on the beach and I was amazed how different the task of chaperoning in Spain is from that of the US.  For example, no lifeguarding of the beach...just asked them to keep an eye on each other; you may smoke (tobacco) but don't let us see it; the chaperones had wine w/their dinner and a cold beer as we barbecued the next day...and we had no problems at all with the kids!  We took them on the bus - after an hour wait in the sun at the bus stop - into the town of Cangas and had a guide show us the historical sites.

Waiting for the bus!!

On tour in Cangas

 Then, we told them to meet us back st the bus about 2 hours later and we set out for the grocery store to buy the food for the churrasco (grilling) the next day.  Everyone was on his or her own for dinner and breakfast foodwise...most bought frozen food but not all.  The adults enjoyed a cold, deli type dinner with a salad...and a very good local Mencia wine.  We all ate together which was very pleasant.  After dinner, they scattered and we listened and watched...until one of us who in her defense was slightly ill...crashed at 11 PM and the other teachers at 2 AM when the beach was closed for the night.

Saturday we struggled up to the campground cafe and waited for it to open at 10 AM for some coffee!!  We all hit the beach after that which was quite pleasant but it had not yet been cleaned for the season so we had to dodge seaweed, etc.

Boats on the beach

Playing Panuelo

 About 12:30 PM, yours truly started the charcoal for the fire upon which we would grill...the place had a nice grill site as you can see in the photos.  As a Texan my fellow chaperones were sure I could "BBQ" and, besides, they had no idea how to start a fire.

Hard at work grilling with Adela and Eva supplying hydration!

Churrasco!

Who me?

Eating delicious meal together

My culinary contribution was the idea of washing, oiling and putting into foil small potatoes to cook in the embers as the meat cooked above...most of the kids had never had a baked potato, much less one baked in coals!  I had to show them how to cut it open and put salt and butter on it!  I explained how in the US there were whole food places that specialized in fillings for baked potatoes...a new concept for the Spanish.  After our delicious meal at the usual hour of about 3 PM, we cleaned up, packed up and hiked back to the 6 PM ferry for the return trip to Vigo of about 30 minutes.  I did NOT go out with my friends that night because I was tired and had to be up at 5:45 AM to get on the bus for our swim meet.

So, we arrive at competition!  We went to Carballo - about a 2 hour bus ride - which was very painful for me because by now from my virus(?) I had lost my voice !  I did swim a couple of short events and have no idea yet how I did but do know that after the meet we went to a restaurant where we each paid 15 euros($18) for appetizers, all the grilled meat or fish, salad, french fries, wine, beer, water, cake and coffee...that you wanted!  At one point, I evidently fell asleep sitting there my friend said...I hate not feeling well and especially, not being able to talk and participate!!  I did have a nice nap all the way home, though...

Celebration of May!  That good bus nap allowed me to have the strength to walk down to the Casco Vello(old quarter) with Teresa to see the May festivities.  Lots of typical Galician May costumes of white attire with colorful accents...dancing, singing and generally bringing in of the spring season!  So glad I didn't miss it!

Me and Teresa 

May festivities

Cuties on fathers' shoulders

Queen and King of May

Giant crow?

It's May 20th as I write this about the last couple of weekends but the next installment will contain my trip to Portugal's Duero River Valley from which I returned yesterday - a great adventure with my friend Vicki Dehnert from the US!

Michele and Carolyn Visit Vigo April 2012

They literally took it by storm!!  They arrived during such a big one that their plane had to go to a nearby town and they were bussed back to Vigo - arriving at 1 AM instead of 9 PM!  So, Thursday is a little blurry as one of us had to go to work and the other two slept in and enjoyed moving slowly...until need of a cup of coffee sent Carolyn out with Michele close behind! (I don't even have a coffee pot.)  They became so adept at cruising around Vigo on their own while I was working that I think they did more shopping in a week than I have done in 9 months - anyone who knows all of us won't be too surprised!  The nice thing about getting off at 2PM each day is that most of the day remains after I get home.  Thursday we cruised the port area and had a drink overlooking the beautiful Ría of Vigo.  Friday, we went out in the evening with some of my barhopping friends...after about 4 stops, we left "early" (1 AM) to walk home. Since the old area has very narrow, winding streets, I think Carolyn and Michele were glad to have me for a guide! The nice thing about living downtown is that I am an easy stroll from the old historic quarter (Casco Vello) where most of the authentic places are found.  You order a glass of something to drink and receive for free typical table tapas at each stop - hence the moving around!  A glass of good wine is never more than about $3.00...the same as a Coke!

Saturday, bright and early at noon(!), we boarded the train to go see Santiago de Compostela...about an hour and a half ride.  We stopped first for pinchos at a place I know of and paid our tabs according to what shape of toothpick our choices from the sideboard had in them.  Interesting method and all on the honor system!  We toured the Cathedral where El Camino de Santiago ends its journey and hiked around the city's medieval streets admiring the Parador,  the Hostal de los Reyes Católicos; the main plaza of Santiago and, of course, the stores!  Azabache is the stone for which Santiago is known...I think it's a type of agate but I'm not really sure.  It is pure black and shiny.  We also even had enough sun to sit outside and enjoy some coffee and Tarta de Santiago, the local cake.  We returned to Vigo in time to catch half of the Real Madrid v. Barcelona game at a local cafe/bar which was packed like all of them were - a good typical experience for Michele and Carolyn!  Carolyn and I were forced to have a local caña (draft beer) so we could stay and enjoy the game!

Sunday we really did leave bright and early - by Spanish standards! - at 9 AM for Lugo, a city two hours away in northern Galicia.  My friend, Teresa, drove, and another friend I met through her, Teresiña, accompanied us as the 5 girls headed down the highway.  We arrived on another cloudy day but one that never really poured on us, thank goodness!

Teresa and Teresiña on street of Lugo

Tulips everywhere

 We went to a couple of very nice museums about Galician culture and history and we had Teresiña, a history/geography teacher!  The 3 of us insisted on a coffee/energy boost stop seated on the main plaza.

Refueling stop!

 Next, we went to the Lugo cathedral - another beautifully preserved, very old cathedral.

Lugo cathedral interior

 After that, it was time for lunch - after all, it was 3 PM!  We tried to find a few places recommended to us but they were closed on Sunday and we settled on another that wasn't closed - a small, typical restaurant.  My visitors were troopers as they tasted orejas (pig ears, considered a delicacy here), pulpo (octopus), navajas (razor clams) and of course, potatoes and greens...all of course accompanied by a bottle of the local red.  Michele put it this way, "As Teresa and Teresiña were enjoying the orejas and pulpo so much, we decided it would be rude to do more than taste each one, so we graciously left the majority for them to savor."  What a sacrifice, eh?

Our lunch!

Yummy, orejas!

 After eating, we went to the main attraction of Lugo, its still completely intact Roman wall which surrounds the old city by encircling it for 2.2 km.  It was a nice post-mealtime stroll.

Daring duo walking the wall

  We returned to our car and stopped briefly at another cafe on the Minho River which passes through Lugo.  Then, the sardines returned to our car for the homeward drive.  Since we took a few "shortcuts" on the way back, we ended up in Carballino where we saw a church by the Spanish architect, Antonio Palacios. 

Palacios' church in Carballino

Teresa has shown me several of his buildings while I've been here and this was another outstanding one.  We arrived in Vigo, tired but happy about 11 PM.

Now, it was Monday again, but this time Carolyn and Michele were coming to classes with me to see my school, meet teacher friends and check out the students.  They, like me, couldn't believe how nice it was to have a cafe open all day at the school!  My students asked them questions and they did a great job of answering.  I even had to do a last minute substitution for a very rowdy class and Carolyn showed me some of her master teacher skills!  One of the most special things that has happened to me here happened that day...we were sitting in a class, waiting for the teacher to get there, chatting with the 10th graders, when Carolina said, "You know, Ms. G, you are very loved."  She was referring specifically to how blessed I am to have some of my wonderful friends come here to visit me...but it really hit me hard and made me realize once again, what a wonderful life I have and how thankful I should be for it and all the wonderful friends it includes.  I think after class on Monday, we all collapsed and just took it easy and cooked dinner at my apartment.

Tuesday, their last day here :( .  I only had 2 classes that didn't start until 12:30 PM.  We enjoyed a leisurely morning and they did last minute errands while I worked.  We were invited to Cristina and Fernando's house that evening to watch The Way on their DVD/TV set-up and we were bringing the evening "meal" of Mexican food..such as I can find here.  We had refried beans which they had never seen and said looked like "dog food" when we emptied the can into the skillet...but they did eat some!  Also, soft tacos, whole black beans, homemade guacamole and some very wimpy hot sauce.  I felt like we held up our end of the deal but of course, they were their usual charming selves.  Michele and Carolyn really enjoyed the view, also, from their top floor flat.

All too quickly, it was Wedneday morning at 5 AM and they were leaving to catch a taxi to the airport - in pouring rain, of course!  We had lots of fun and so many good laughs that I hated to see them go...although I'm sure they are ready for their own beds and more space than my one bedroom apartment!  We created memories and have agreed to travel again!  Thanks so much, y'all, for visiting me here!