Sunday, November 20, 2011

Meals, etc. in Spain


Today is November 20, 2011…almost 3 months here in Vigo…wow!!  Time has flown by…it’s Sunday and also Election Day here…beautiful sunny, windless 55 degree day.  Once again, after a short walk, I’m sitting at a bar/restaurant overlooking the Ria or estuary of the town – really the lifeblood of Vigo because fishing, canning, and shipbuilding are the major industries here.  And so gorgeous to look across at Cangas, with all of its red roofs, and out to sea where the Iles de Cites provide a mountainous backdrop for the Ria.  Several small sailing boats are playing follow-the-leader as their sailors learn their art.  I can even see the jutting out peninsula where I hiked with Cristina and Fernando a couple of weeks ago. 

During the past couple of weeks I have had the privilege to participate in two very typical Galician activities….both instigated by my school.  On Friday, November 11th, classes were stopped after 11:30 AM…although all students and teachers were reminded to report to their last class of the day at 2:00 PM for roll call!  We had a “magosto” or chestnut roast in Gallego – there is no Castellano word for this, evidently.  The assistant director roasted the nuts over a fire of charcoal at one end of the covered patio.  Before you can roast them, each nut has to have a small piece of its shell removed so it doesn’t explode while roasting!  They are put into cones of newspaper after they are roasted to hand out to everyone.  I ate a few but have to admit that I prefer pecans!!  Meanwhile, there were soccer (futbol) games going on continuously, one class was having a bake sale to raise money for its field trip to Barcelona, someone else was playing the guitar, etc.  It was lots of fun and I had the chance to speak individually with many students who asked questions they would never ask in a group setting….more on that another time!  The day reminded me of the Garza school wide picnics we had each fall and spring.




This past Friday, November 18th, the entire staff of the school was invited to attend a “cocido” at 3 PM.  It was all arranged at a small local restaurant but we paid individually.  Fortunately, one of the teachers I knew well was going and she lives near me so I had a ride in a car – a rare happening for me here!  The meal began with typical tapas of small bites of tortilla espanola and croquetas stuffed with ham and Bechamel sauce – they could be a meal all by themselves!!  Of course, red wine or beer accompanied everything.  We eventually made our way to the table for the main course of “cocido”.  “Cocido” literally means “boiled” which is what happens to the ingredients.  It reminds me of our meals of corned beef, cabbage and potatoes all boiled together.  However, “cocido” has cabbage and potatoes AND carrots, garbanzos and every part of a pig you can think of…yes, I tried pig’s ear and snout!!  I’m definitely not into crunchy cartilage!!  After all that food, they came for dessert orders…I had “natilla” which literally means “whipped cream” but is a very rich custard.  I could only eat a few bites I was so full…coffee followed and then, liqueurs!  There were two, one very similar to Kahlua and the other, to a White Russian.  Since they both had coffee in them, I could actually sip a little without putting my head on the table for an immediate nap!  By the way, the meal started at 3 PM and we left at 8 PM…just another typical Spanish meal!!






I also had the privilege last weekend of going out for two meals on Saturday, November 12th, which were both very interesting as well.  My friends, Cristina and Fernando, invited me over to share their “comida” (midday meal) with them at their home.  This was/is my first invitation into a home here.  They live about 2 blocks from me on the top floor of their building with a wall of windows overlooking the Ria in their living/dining room.  They both love to cook and made an exquisite meal of “chocos” (type of small squid), shrimp, vegetables, etc. in a rice dish accompanied by a large tossed salad.  She made a flan for dessert!  He picked a local wine to have with it as well.  After being there about 2 1/2  hours and finishing my coffee, I said maybe I should be leaving and letting them rest because I knew she had had a cold the previous week.  “Oh, no!” they said, some friends were coming by to have coffee who wanted to meet me…so I stayed and talked with their friends ( a doctor and his wife, who is a special education teacher) who were lots of fun!  All of our discussions were in Spanish and I was sort of amazed that I could discuss politics, health systems, male/female differences, etc. in Spanish with Spanish people.  I finally excused myself at 8 PM (another 5-6 hour meal!!) so I could go  home and rest up a bit before my swim team meal that evening.

Before I knew it, it was 10PM and I was on my way to the swim team restaurant which was thankfully close by….we had 25 for dinner.  I ended up sitting near some of the women I knew better and it was lots of fun…the evening even included passing an apple from one to the next by placing it under your chin…I thought the cute young guy next to me might die of mortification, but he survived!  Next Sunday, Nov.27th, is our first meet – they published on email the events by age and I found out under the Spanish Masters system I am considered to be 60 (already!!) because that’s how old I’ll be next year and the season extends into next year.  Quite a shock to see it in print for the first time !!  Then, yesterday at practice, the coach was weighing us and noting it down – I asked her if there was no privacy here?!  Good news was for my first weighing in 3months(after the “cocido”!), I was the same as when I left Texas.  Yea for walking everywhere!!

I think that’s enough for one reading….don’t want to put y’all to sleep….but stay tuned for a report on my Thanksgiving dinner on Nov 26th at Cristina and Fernando’s where I’m cooking the turkey!!  And, also the swim meet the next day….Ciao, ciao!

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Italy--Panamanian Style !!

What a great trip I had to visit my Panamanian friends, the de la Guardia/Calderons, who were transferred to Modena, Italy in July, 2011.  From everything they showed me, they have had to be traveling around the countryside each weekend! Friday, I trained to Santiago de la Compostela, 1 1/2 hours and then took a bus from train station to brand new, just opened airport terminal!  Ryanair got me to Milan-Bergamo safely and early....took Alex (my friend) and I a while to find each other but eventually, we did!  Of course, by then it was almost 1 AM and we had a 2 hour drive ahead of us to her home.  Needless to say, we did not rise early on Saturday!


However, that did not stop them from showing me the town on Saturday...we ate a bite in the main piazza of Modena after an earlier stop to stave off hunger with gelato.  The ice cream there is as good as everyone says and cheap compared to Baskin-Robbins type places here:  only 1 euro per scoop.  The chocolate was so rich it coated the inside of your mouth!  Ignacio, their 8 year old son, and I were co-conspirators in looking for gelaterias and opportunities to patronize them.  After walking round their quaint and gorgeous "non-tourist" town, we headed out to a "feria" in a small village about 30 minutes away.  I acquired another nacimiento(nativity scene) for my collection - it's in a scallop shell!
We supported the local Scouts by buying some roasted chestnuts and got Ignacio his first wooden rubber band gun - boy, did that bring back memories of my brothers shooting bees in the backyard!  He's so sweet that by the time I left he had not yet shot his 10 year old sister, Ana Lucia!  They both acquired silk worm cocoons with which they plan to spin silk.  A fun, relaxing day!

Sunday dawned chilly but with no rain!  "Dawned" in a very figurative sense...because we all enjoyed moving slowly in the mornings and Saturday night was 'Fall Back' the time night in Europe.  They took me to their favorite place to eat which was named (I think) Casa de Montale- an old villa turned into a restaurant with excellent and reasonable food.  We all enjoyed a fantastic antipasti platter and then my primer platti was tortellini stuffed with pumpkin - very, very flavorful!  My segundi platti was veal cooked in Modena's own, top quality balsamic vinegar which was the consistency of molasses.  Delicious! All accompanied, of course, with a glass of the house red wine.  Ignacio and I prevailed on the group to wait for gelato later for dessert-which wasn't very difficult because we were all stuffed.  I had my first macchiato after the meal.  Then, off to the city of Verona!



If you know where Milan is in Northern Italy, Modena is about 90 miles southeast.  Verona is 45-50 miles north and slightly east of Modena.  It is an old city (of course, as my Italian friend Chiara once pointed out to me, everything in Italy is old compared to the US!)  and has an intact arena or coliseum in the center of the town.  We walked through all of the old town:  shopping galore of all brands, stalls selling food and crafts, and streets full of people enjoying their town on a Sunday night.  At Ana Lucia's request, and my hearty endorsement, we went to Juliette's house where the balcony is from which Romeo courted her!  Also, there's a statue of Juliette which local lore has that if you touch her left breast and wish, you will have good luck in love - I did it, so we'll see!!  We toured the inside as well which was typical of the time but not extraordinary.  After another gelato, we returned to Modena with our excellent chofer, Manuel!  Alex and I had a glass of wine when we returned and then retired...after another wonderful conversation...poor Manuel had to work hard to get a word in with us!

Monday, Manuel was still off work and the kids had no school.  We decided to go see an Italian mall and Alex wanted to show me the store I had asked about, Decathlon - a giant Academy/REI combination.  We ate tigelles(sp?) which were mini-round breads, sliced like a pita and filled with all sorts of good stuff:  salami or prosciutto or caprese or mortadella or ... and we each had a big salad, too.  They finally let me get a meal!!  That afternoon we delivered Ignacio to his Halloween party (of course, he had his Ninja costume on since he got up)...they did a Harry Potter party and had a cell phone in the wizard hat and the dad had the other cell and was placing the kids in their "houses".  He, actually, was from the Houston area but had married an Italian and lived there 15 years....he was very amusing as the hat!  That's why they had a Halloween party, too, because it has not really caught on in Italy....just all the expats miss it!  We went around all day with rubber bats stuck to our car windows and got some interesting looks!!  After dropping off Ignacio, we took Ana Lucia to her riding lessons.  She is quite accomplished as a jumper as she rode in Panama, too.  Her trainer here wants her to enter the European Equestrian Championships-it was quite fun to be back in the horse environment(some of you didn't know me in my horse-crazy years when I actually owned a horse).  Alex also has ridden much more than I and in the English style.  We returned to their house and had a few trick or treaters and the kids ran around the neighborhood with some friends - a perfect Halloween Eve!


It's already Tuesday, the day I have to return to Vigo...I can't believe it!  But, of course, they can't take me the 2 hours back to the airport without a last stop to show me more of Italy.  We didn't have time for Lake Lagarde but went to a nearby village, Il Borghetto - as the Spanish say "que precioso".  Built over water and as quaint and picturesque as you can imagine - my pictures don't do it honor!


And, of course, we had to have a gelato there, too!  The chofer got me to the airport in plenty of time for my flight - I think he was really worried I would miss it and have to stay longer - at least that's what I kept threatening him with!  My return was blessed as I made each connection and got back to Vigo at 9:45 PM after departing Milan at 4:15PM.  There are few people in the world as wonderful as Alex and Manuel and their adorable, sweet, delightfully age appropriate children!  Os amo siempre...